Wine Advocate-Parker : It is hard to find a better Crozes-Hermitage than Les Varonniers. Made from a six acre vineyard of Syrah vines that average 65-70 years in age, the 1998 is showing much better after bottling than it did from cask. A profound Crozes, it boasts an opaque purple color, and an extraordinary nose of spice box, smoke, flowers, licorice, and powdered stones. Extremely expressive, full-bodied, rich, spicy, and supple-textured, it should drink well young yet age for 15+ years. Wow!